The Roll Up

When Lawry was a mere five years old, he had a very traumatic experience: His mother brought him to a "Sportsman Exhibition" in LA County (he's a little foggy on the exact name) where there were lumberjacks, hunters, anglers, etc. showing off their various wares and skills.  Tents, rifles, canoes galore.  This was 1948 or so.  In order to get ample usage out of his "Gold Rivet" jeans (not Levi's unfortunately), his mother bought him a pair that were extra long so that he would grow into them.  The catch - an 8" cuff (or roll up).  Imagine, you're barely 3 feet tall and your jean cuff is mid-shin.  Out in public they went, much to his dismay.  Luckily, they were shrink-to-fit, so after the first wash, it was only a 6" roll up.  Nonetheless, to this day Lawry is not a fan of the roll up. 

The roll up was definitely a hipster look in the 1950s.  Today is no different as it experiences a resurgence.  It looks great with a pair of sneakers or English brogues.  The amount of break is up to you.  It looks great on guys and girls (for girls - especially rolled up to mid-shin with a sandal in the summer). For guys, we like a roll up of 3-4".   Another benefit, it shows off the selvedge edge for the cognoscenti.  So, assuming you didn't have any childhood experiences that would make you do otherwise, give it a try. 

Joe loves wearing his jeans rolled down and up.

Rag & Bone - Women's Fall 2010

One of the highlights of our New York trip last week was the women's Rag & Bone collection for next fall.  We loved the military jackets, the capes, the coats, all of it . . . we wanted to walk out right then and there wearing it!   Located in the heart of the Meatpacking District, Rag & Bone's  showroom was packed with buyers from around the world.   All of the design and production of the sample line is done right there as well so the place was bustling with energy and excitement.  Rag & Bone's spring collection is in store now and definitely worth checking out.  And the men's Rag & Bone collection will be arriving soon. 

New York Buying Trip - Women's

We are in New York again - this time for the women's buying.  So far, we've seen Brunello Cucinelli, Cividini, Etro, Luciano Barbera, Piazza Sempione, and many new lines as well (more on that later this week).  In addition to the buying, if we have time, we try to do something non-work related.  Yesterday, we visited MoMA (Museum of Modern Art) at 54th and 5th (just west of 5th). 

Aside from their great permanent collection, they have a fantastic exhibit on Tim Burton, http://www.moma.org/visit/calendar/exhibitions/313.  It was very crowded (due to it being a very popular exhibit for all ages and the fact that it was a holiday) but well worth it.  If you haven't been to MoMA since it was renovated a few years ago, definitely plan a visit next time you're in New York.  There is a great casual cafe on the 2nd floor, The Terace on 5, as well as a more formal restaurant, The Modern on 6. 

They're here . . .

That's right, the Levi's Vintage Clothing jeans have arrived!  These are Levi's made with Cone denim from the famed mill in North Carolina (dating back to the 1920s), and still made in the USA.  Based on true archival pieces - these jeans are one-of-a-kind and nowhere else in Denver. We just received the 1947 and the 1966.  The '47 is the foundation for the modern day 501.  It was a post-war jean that was less work wear and more rock n' roll.   The rivets are back (the '44 didn't have rivets or the signature "2-arches" stitching on the back pockets due to rationing - the arches were painted on).  The '47 comes with the classic button fly while the '66 is trimmer and has a zipper fly. We have a 1955 on order as well - which is similar to what Marlon Brando wore in The Wild One.  Slightly higher rise, fuller thigh, narrow bottom. Button fly. Cool Daddy-O!

For women's we have Levi's Vintage Clothing and Levi's Made in Craft coming in.  The Made in Craft is classic Levi's updated for today's fashions.  A little trimmer, available in skinny, straight and boot cut.

1947 501 Rigid Denim.

One way to spend a Friday night?  Breaking in a new pair of Levi's. These jeans are "shrink to fit." So you buy a size bigger - a 36" if you are a 34" waist, a 38" if you are a 36", etc.  Wear them for a while or wash them once initially so that they shrink.  They will shrink up to 10% during the first few washings.  Don't hem them until they have been washed once or twice.  Get this: Levi's recommends sitting in a bath of warm water for ten minutes so that the jeans form to your body and then if you can, let them dry on your body as they shape to you.  Otherwise, you can let them hang dry (which is what I did due to time constraints and that it is winter).  You can always wash them in the washing machine - but how many of your friends can say they spent the evening sitting in the bath with their new 1947 Levi's on? Run a bath, get in, have a beer and enjoy.  One word of caution - the indigo will leave a slight stain on the tub which will need to be removed with scouring powder.  It will also come off on your hands a little as you are wringing out the excess water.  The indigo also can rub off on fabric - so be careful where you sit initially.

Once they are dry, they will be very stiff (to the point where they can stand on their own!).  I threw mine in the dryer for five minutes just to soften them up.  I have them on now as I'm writing this and . . . fantastic!!! My very own Levi's!

Soaking in the tub.

Drying.

Save the Date - Men's Barbera Trunk Show

It's confirmed: March 19th & 20th is the men's Luciano Barbera Spring 2010 trunk show.  Michal Sestak (son-in-law of Luciano Barbera) will be in store to present the latest trends, this season's fabrics, etc.  Put it on your calendar.  We hope you can attend as it will be a fantastic time!

Luciano Barbera

Golf and a knit tie? The epitome of cool.

Dots and plaids.

"Mr. Wild" Michal Sestak.

Saturday's Patterns

We had a a client call yesterday wondering how to wear a newly bought check shirt with his ties. As a basic rule, if the patterned shirt is a simple pattern (i.e. houndstooth, check, bengal stripe) treat it as a solid using the dominant color.  A blue and white houndstooth can be treated as a solid blue shirt.  If the shirt is a multi-stripe or plaid with three or more colors, focus on one color to work with the jacket and tie.  For instance, if the shirt has a blue ground to it (the background is blue), that is the color used to coordinate with the jacket.  Then find a color in the shirt to make the tie work with.  It doesn't have to match, it can be complimentary. Bottom line: It's not rocket science.  Some days your patterns will work, some days they may not. And even if they do, someone might think they do not (they are probably not as sophisticated as you).  That's okay.  That's why having a distinct personal style is so great.  Just experiment with it and go with what feels right.  Here are two more examples on mixing patterns. 

Plaid jacket (with burgundy and brown deco), blue and white houndstooth shirt (treated as a solid blue) with reddish tie and copper/rust pocket square.

Olive brown jacket with navy and rust windowpane, blue, brown and navy striped shirt, with a navy tie with brown and blue paisleys, brownish pocket square.