Fabric Mills, Luciano Barbera

As mentioned previously, there are strong overtones with a country/rustic feeling for Fall '10. There is a lot of plaid, flannel, brushed cottons, Woolrich-inspired themes.

In a nutshell this is how this happens: The fabric mills get together and decide the colors and direction almost a year and a half ahead and then make fabrics with these themes and present them at fabric shows; then the various designers go to the fabric shows - Premiere Vision in Paris for instance http://www.premierevision.fr/ - and buy the fabrics for the following season.  They will be buying for Spring '11 next month.  Then the collections are story boarded and designed. Then stores like ours go to market and select for the season six months away.  We will buy Spring '11 in June/July 2010.  Funny note - John Malkovich is pictured on the Premiere Vision website selecting fabrics (see prior post). 

Barbera is no exception.  The Carlo Barbera fabrics (many exclusive to the Luciano Barbera collection) were fantastic! They had great car coats, outershirts, brushed cotton and corduroy pants, etc.  The collection looked great.  Pictured below are some items we bought for Fall '10.  If you would like to reserve one in your size, let us know.

Michal Sestak from Luciano Barbera and Pino Vaghi

(formerly of Borrelli) having a male-bonding moment.

Michal Sestak striking a pose wearing a quilted-lined shirt jacket, $1395. 

Luciano Barbera overshirt, $650

Techno Bohemian by John Malkovich

Last Friday was capped off by visiting our friend, John Malkovich.  As some of you will recall, Mr. Malkovich designed his own clothing line a few years ago and we were one of a handful of exclusive stores globally to showcase it (the others being Jeffrey in New York, L'Eclairer in Paris, Brown's in London and Corso Como in Milan).  It had great design elements to it - eccentric but very wearable.  It only lasted a few seasons unfortunately but now Mr. Malkovich is back, using the same production team that he had in place initially out of Italy and Japan.  For Fall '10, he has some great jackets, sweaters, checked pants, and some fantastic printed shirts.  Mr. Malkovich is quite the "fabric nut" to use his own words, and it is quite evident in his collection.  He has fabrics that you won't find anywhere else for sure.  It was great to see him again.  How he manages to juggle his schedule is amazing to us.  Aside from re-launching his collection, he has a few different films he is working on (his "day job"), an opera in Paris he is directing, and planning the spring 2011 collection. 

 

Mason's, Caruso, Finamore, Rag & Bone

Yesterday we saw Cruciani early (another 8am appointment).  It looked great and is back in house.  We've never seen the collection as big as this.  Cashmere hoodies, bombers, scarves and hats.  Then it was on to see Ronny Kristal our longtime friend who handles Mason's.  Mason's showed lots of brushed cottons, cords, 5 pockets with seam details on the legs, and retro-inspired herringbones and checks in washed cottons. The cargos hadn't arrived yet - we will stop back today to look at those.  Caruso had some amazing fabrics - Italian Shetlands (English in their inspiration but not as scatchy), double-faced cashmere plaids which we will do unlined in a French-faced model, and cashmere check in a beautiful brown and blue combo.  The Shetlands are at a great price point, $995! Shorter, lined in a cotton - fantastic with a wool donegal or denim.

Finamore was next.  Some of you may recall that we carried Finamore a few years ago.  It is another venerable shirt house from Napoli.  To use the words of the owner, it has since "grown up" in terms of servicing the American market.    Handmade like Borrelli - they offer some amazing shirts! They do both a sport and a dress, washed and classic.  Custom shirts take 6-8 weeks, prices start at $450 (that being the bulk of the collection).  They offer a fuller "American" fit and a slimmer Italian fit which we will stock. 

Lastly to finish the day (at 7pm), we ventured off to the Meat Packing district to visit with Rag & Bone (another newcomer for Spring 10).  Here the "English  explorer" theme was evident again with lots of brushed cotton checks and plaids, vintage looking cardigan vests in birdseye wools, worker shirts in felted wool (black and bottle green - we're undecided as to which color to buy), etc. 

It was a long but rewarding day which we topped off with a dinner at Paradou, a small French-eatery across from Pastis.  Not  nearly as big (only 6 tables in the front) and more authentically French (especially the rude waiter who was French - please note we love the French - but he was a bit snotty), the food was quite good.  On Monday through Wednesday, Paradou offers the 5 for $35 - a five course meal for an amazing $35.  We did a la carte this time, which was still fantastic! The venison is worth having.  Until tomorrow or perhaps Friday . . . Adieu!

Transferring at Port Authority.

E Train (Local).

Rag & Bone.

Looking at Pastis.

New York Buying Trip

I know you're probably thinking "Where have you been?".   Like Delroy Lindo asking Gene Hackman in Get Shorty.  We haven't made any posts in the last few days as we are in New York buying for the Fall 2010 market and have been extremely busy, tirelessly working 11 hour days to find the best for you.  So far things have looked great and a renewed sense of optimism has returned to the market.  We have seen many lines already (some standards like Kiton, Paul Smith and Etro) and some new companies like Levi's Vintage Classic (arriving in-store in a few weeks, classic 501s from the archives based on different years of production, 1933, 1947, 1955, and 1967 is what is coming in for Spring 2010); Barbour designed by To Ki To - a Japanese designer (think of the classic English Barbour gentleman on a motorcycle shooting quail); and many more.  There is definitely a country theme to what we've seen, lots of checks and brushed cotton fabrics for shirtings, nubby cottons and wools for pants.  Take the Paul Smith Jeans inspiration for the season, "A Scotsman in Canada Trapping Beaver" or something to that effect.  There have been great boots, chunky sweaters, vests, scarves, etc.  Have to run now.  Will try to make another update later today. If there is anything in particular you would like to see for Fall 2010, let us know and we'll try to accomodate you. Tallyho!

Paul Smith Jeans Showroom

Levis Vintage Classis Denim, 1947.

Buy The Best You Can Afford

I was perusing some books in our library the other day and came across this passage from Elegance: A Guide to Quality in Menswear by G. Bruce Boyer (W.W. Norton & Co., 1985):

Buy the absolute best you can afford.  Fine clothes will last ten times longer than cheap, shoddy merchandise, will feel and fit better, and of course will look better.  A cheap suit looks cheap even when it's brand new, while a good one retains its appearance after years of wear.  A good raincoat, tweed jacket, and flannel slacks actually improve with age and wear.  It's a matter of quality.

This says it all.  Whether it is a suit, a shirt, a sweater, a pair of shoes, or even a pair of khakis, quality clothing is obvious and stands the test of time.  Quality anything stands the test of time.  That is why when you examine the amount of workmanship that goes into a Kiton garment, it is clear that the price is not only justified but is actually a tremendous value.  Truly.  Without naming other bigger brands with much bigger advertising campaigns, look at the amount of craftsmanship and the impeccable fabric used in a Kiton garment and compare. 

We obviously pride ourselves on carrying lines that may not be household names to the many, but are of tremendous value.  To name just a few: Belvest, Bontoni, Caruso, John Lobb, Luciano Barbera, Zanone, and the small companies we carry under our own label, among others.   In the months to come, we will highlight different features that make each of these companies and their product unique and of value.  Further, whether you are dressing more casually these days or prefer to wear a suit five days a week, we will discuss the merits of having a quality casual wardrobe for work or for the weekend.  For just like a cheap suit is obvious, so too is a cheap shirt and pair of chinos. Buy the best you can afford and you can't go wrong.

The New Rake Has Arrived!

We just received the newest issue of The Rake.  Always fantastic, it includes an article about Kiton and Antonio De Matteis (the president and nephew of founder Ciro Paone).  Although somewhat brief, it still offers great insight into this historic Neapolitan company, focusing on its heritage, their love and knowledge of fabrics (what truly separates Kiton from the rest of the pack), and its exquisite make.  The only jacket seam sewn by a machine is the center seam on the back.  Everything else is by hand, requiring an incredible 25 man-hours to produce (compare that to an Armani which takes maybe 4 hours and that's being generous).  When we have visited the factory, it was amazing just how quiet it was.  Other features include using a half moon shaped piece of wood which the tailor uses to shape the chest as he sews the canvas so that it comforms more naturally to the body.  It's a great article and we invite you in to sit down, have an espresso, and enjoy The Rake. And then afterwards, try on a Kiton jacket to see just how great it feels. You'll be amazed!

The Rake featuring Kiton, Tom Ford, and more.

Antonio De Matteis of Kiton.

Winter Sale Starts Today!

We have started our Chilly Willy Winter Sale today! Great prices and a great selection from some of your favorite brands: Luciano Barbera, Kiton, Etro, Paul Smith, Ermenegildo Zegna, Brunello Cucinelli, Dries Van Noten, etc.  Hurry in as the selection is best now.   And check back often to the blog as we feature some of the fantastic deals!

303 Magazine Awards Issue

We're proud to announce that we've been selected as Denver's top boutique in 303 Magazine's annual awards issue. Check out the magazine at http://www.303magazine.com/303online/january2010/index.html.